Wildlife Camping 2.0

Zimbabwe
Hwange National Park
25 - 26 October 2019

Some decisions have a major impact. Returning to the Hwange National Park appears to be such an important decision afterwards. The events tumble over each other in 24 hours. Nature cannot be forced. You have to wait and see what comes your way. Simply be lucky.

Disc
First, secure a camping spot for tonight. Perhaps on the site where Jean-Philippe sleeps. The place where the water source wrecking elephants kept us from sleep. He wants to share that place with us, we hope. We meet him at the park managers office. He hospitably shares his reserved space with us. We meet on location in the afternoon. After a delicious hamburger at a luxury Lodge we go back into the park. Riding down the water lakes in the hope of meeting the wild dogs. That is not happening. We see one or two small dead elephants at each lake. Days before that they were not there yet. Shocking.
By half past five we are at the agreed place. We can already see the car of our Belgian host. And also two other cars. The platform packed with Indian people. Lots of food, drinks, toys and a music system. They have a party tonight and warn that they are playing loud music. Here in the middle of nature with wildlife? Bizarre. Why not somewhere in a hip city? We don't want to spend the night like that, probably the Wildlife either.

Super place
We are looking for another place to sleep. The people present there may want to share the place with us. Then Jean-Philippe suddenly sees wild dogs across the water. What a coincidence. So wonderful. We study them through the binoculars and capture them on screen. The dogs walk away into the bush, we also leave from this place. Even before it gets dark, we drive past a campsite that is still empty. A small lake close to the platform and open plains before the bush starts. A good environment to spot predators. Better than the reserved site. Elephants along the lake, hippos and crocodiles in it. At the bush impala. It looks peaceful. The grazers have suddenly disappeared. A predator is approaching? We see and hear four hyenas.

Zoo
Later that evening, Jean-Philippe's spotlight catches a feline animal in a ditch. A lion, cheetah or perhaps a leopard. Only when the beast shows itself in full regalia will we recognize it. It's the shy leopard. Jean-Philippe and I admire him through the binoculars. Onno tries to photograph the animal with the telephoto lens. Then he disappears again. The fatigue strikes me. I'm going to sleep. I am standing next to the car removing the makeup and applying night cream. Always check if no predator is approaching. I have not been in the rooftop tent for a minute or Onno checks while calling; 'Are you in the tent? A lion is walking by the cars. " As if it is a usual Friday night conversation.
An hour later Onno walks to the right on the platform and sees the leopard near the toilet. Jean-Philippe illuminates the beast so Onno can clearly see and film him. Tonight we all saw the animal well with our own eyes and also captured it on the photo. This is unforgettable. Once the gentlemen are exhausted after a long evening and night in the roof tent, the hippos fight noisily and the elephants trumpet loudly. What a noise. That is nothing compared to the lion that growls next to the cars a little later. The night cannot go wrong. The peace returns. We fall asleep under the soothing sound of a snoring hippo.

No solution
Upon awakening, the first tourists arrive, including Claudius. We have breakfast again with the four of us. A herd of elephants is on their way to the water pool. A little one walks slowly, he is limping. Possibly injured among the elephants at the wells? His knee joint completely broken. The elephant cannot stand on that leg. First wash in the muddy lake. Then drink fresh water at the source. When the thirst is quenched, the herd walks back to the bush. The mother and a family member stay with the injured toddler. Time passes. The loyal family member eventually leaves them for the bush. The mother starts to follow the herd. The little one does not succeed, walking becomes increasingly difficult. Heartbreaking. The animal life is not feasible. They have no solution, no plan. A broken leg; that's it then. I hope from the bottom of my heart that he will be spared a long agony.

Ache

We have been following this family for a few hours with a lump in our throat. The tourists come and go. Unaware of what is going on in their eyes and in the hours before. New herds are entering the field. Normally they displace at the source. Now they are approaching step by step. The leader does not claim the best place at the source. Out of respect for the situation of the injured young and mother, he remains standing beside them. A calf in the new herd does not see what is playing here and drives the injured away from the first place. The mother makes renewed attempts to go away, but the little one keeps on drinking. Then the Matriarch of the unfortunate elephant comes back from the bush. She instructs the mother to follow. The attempt fails because the little one hardly takes another step. And the mother won't go without her child. The teacher drinks something again and doesn't know it anymore. The struggle of the child, the mother and the teacher is visible. Heartbreaking. The little one doesn't get far today. We can guess what this leads to. Tonight when the carnivorous, feline animals return. The tears sting behind our eyes. This is also Wildlife we ​​know, the survival of the strongest and most vital beasts.

Privilege
The last 24 hours in this park are the most impressive of the entire journey so far. An emotional roller coaster with many highlights. Euphoria at the beautiful events, the rare animals showed themselves nearby and especially heard. But also disappointments and anxious moments. Sadness for the harsh animal life. All that in a day. Overwhelming. What a privilege to be able to experience and share this. Zimbabwe at its best.

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